with a grain of salt...that's the way i seem to be looking at surfing...i just have some hesitations . my surfboard is purchased and the wetsuit is in in route. i won't be able to put it off that much longer. all the equipment will be in payed for and sitting in the living room, just wish i could leave the fear i was overcome with on the beach. bri and i went the other day. to san clemente. once our wet suits were on that was it. i was going in. there was no way i just drove all the way to san clemente with my NEW used surfboard and rented ripoff wetsuit. we were going. that was that. i can't really understand the fear. i love to swim, i swam competitively for ten years of my life. i love the ocean, and normally have no fear of the ocean.
strapped that leash on, paddled out--with a few head crashers and was not only nervous... i was ANNOYED i was nervous. the last thing i wanted was a fear of surfing like that of my fear of snowboarding. i wasn't having it. as i watched a perfect wave line up behind me--which i learned was a so-called "set wave" or in other words.. not the best idea. i paddled like i knew what i was doing. [ whereas i did NOT know what i was doing] as you imagined, i did not make it, nor did i stand up.. but god damn I WAS ALIVE! my fear disappeared and i felt a little more like "i could actually do this". i was a bit shit out of luck because i didn't catch a wave and the waves grew in size. i figured i should probably get out before i hated surfing.
needless to say.. my wetsuit should be here by monday. once bri's comes, we are going.. so i gotta suck it up and give it a whirl. hopefully this brand new 4/3 mm EXCEL wetsuit will kick ass.. be super warm and maybe.. one of these time i leave my fear on the beach, i leave it there for good!
here's my new wetsuit.. an XCEL 4/3mm. bri says i will be super warm. warmth is key to me. good deal though at www.backcountry.com [click here for the same suit/same deal] , it was just $95 bucks with free shipping [for purchase over $50]
No comments:
Post a Comment